![]() On a less dense species like Fir, it is common to see deep checks that are quite wide and open like an explosive crack, because the timber has been shrinking and compressing into the empty space and building up pressure until the fibers give way. There may be more of them, but they will be small and usually only skin deep. Checks will open readily, but usually in Ipe’s case, the wood is stable enough that the checks will be pretty small. With higher density there is less empty space for the wood fibers to compress into. The denser, heavy woods like Ipe can check more readily than something like Douglas Fir. Moreover, different woods will check differently. There is just no way to avoid these checks, and if you aren’t seeing them, then there is probably a much bigger issue to be concerned with – like a rotten core. As the outer layers dry and shrink, they are halted by the moist inner layer, and they have no recourse but to crack. With so much insulation around the center of the timber, it will retain moisture much longer than the outer layers. This means it will behave more like a log in the yard than a board. But when you get into thicker pieces like 12/4 and up into 6×6 and 12×12 timbers, you are looking at a sizable cross section of the original log. Checking can be controlled in “regular” sized 4/4 through 8/4 or even 10/4 lumber, because this thinner stuff is easier to dry. I joke, but the reality is that these cracks or checks are just the nature of wood. Probably a good idea to speak in low, soothing tones around those timbers too. You could dry the timbers in a vacuum kiln and definitely not use them outside and keep them away from direct sunlight. ![]()
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